Showing posts with label women's education. Show all posts
Showing posts with label women's education. Show all posts

Sunday, 24 November 2013

Back to the Desert: A New Jeddah?

Saudi Arabia: a time of exciting change
It’s been some time since I’ve written, and I suppose there are a number of reasons for my absence from the blog world. When I moved back to Toronto this past July, I wondered whether I would continue with the blog; it’s about Saudi Arabia, after all, and since I’m no longer officially living there, I wasn’t sure whether I’d have much to say.

Good news, though! Any doubts I may have had about the relevance of Pink Jeddah Sunset have been eradicated! Obliterated! Blown away! In the few short months since I left Jeddah, many interesting, provocative, and exciting developments and been made in Saudi, and in Canada-Saudi relations, and I hope that I will find time over the semester break (in December) to write about these!

Al Hamra District Beach Area, Jeddah
Here are a few of the *big* events and exciting developments that I consider particularly notable:

(1)    Saudi Arabia has released Canadians from horrendously long visa wait times—it now takes only 10 days as opposed to 45+ to receive a visa. (When I first applied for my visa, I waited over 70 days once I’d submitted my completed application)
Preview from the Saudi Arabian Consulate Visa Page: Good News!
(http://embassies.mofa.gov.sa/sites/canada/EN/ConsulateSection/Visa/Pages/default.aspx)

(2)     There is now a direct flight from Toronto to Jeddah via Saudi Arabian airlines! (Horray for easier future visits to see DH!)
 
Jeddah to Toronto, Direct!
(www.saudia.com)

(3)    Many women took to the streets—behind the wheel!—on October 23, 2013

Driving in Saudi
(http://news.msn.com/world/saudi-men-quietly-help-campaign-for-women-to-drive)
There are all exciting things that I will write more on soon inshallah!

Life: too few hours in a day!
The main reason I have unfortunately not kept up (on the blog) with the interesting stories above is—first and foremost—school. The first year of my doctoral program is comprised of coursework, and that, along with other responsibilities, is making my days (and nights!) particularly hectic. I’m keeping a barely-there balance of readings, teaching assistant duties (marking two sets of 70 essays among other tasks this semester), my own seminar presentations, upcoming final papers, and an Old English exam to top it all off! It’s truly been a whirlwind few months, and for the most part I’m very thankful for the busyness.

And then it’s quiet...for a second.
The rare moments that I have an hour to myself—away from books, stress, and life drama—I feel a bit empty and miss DH so very much. I last saw him in early July, and, as he pointed out the other day, this is the longest we’ve been apart since getting married in the summer of 2011.
Having lived apart in 2009 for two and a half years, and then again in 2011 for four months while I waited for my Saudi visa, DH and I are no strangers to long-distance love.  We knew what we were getting into, and that keeping busy is crucial. By nature, we’re both masters at doing so!
Jeddah: Can't wait!

The countdown is on!
While DH and I are both keeping busy, I’m counting down the days until I can return to warm, beautiful, sunny Jeddah (a city for which I am truly so very nostalgic) and see my love! I’m also eager to see my former colleagues and students, and, of course, my wonderful friends who will be there when I visit for a few weeks next month!

I promise that I’ll write more from Jeddah in a few short weeks! Can’t wait to tell you all about my “reverse reverse culture shock” that will no doubt afflict me in some manner... (Reverse culture shock—even after being back in Canada since July—is a topic in and of itself!)

Until then, As-salam alaykum sالسلام عليكم and ma-salaam مع السلامة to you all!

.........................................

...and try to stay warm, fellow snow and cold-afflicted Canadians!!!!
Toronto Weather Last Night. BRR!

Monday, 2 September 2013

New Beginnings

Toronto: It's Really Home (almost)
I can't believe I've been moved into my place in Toronto for a month now! Yesterday was September first, and after two years out of school, I'm thrilled to be returning to student life for a PhD at the University of Toronto! Once DH is back here with me--inshallah in a year or so--it will REALLY feel like home again :)
West-facing view from my balcony. 
My sister came and visited for most of last week, and we had a fun last week of summer shopping, going to the movies, Starbucks dates, baking, and enjoying the *hot* weather. Yep--Toronto feels HOT to me rather than cold like when I first moved back in the middle of a July heatwave! I guess my body has adapted to the weather here. Let's just see what fall and winter do to me though!
Cineplex Movies!

Starbucks love!

Welcome to the Department of English!
Last week, I had my first official meeting with the Associate Director of my department for course advising. I am really excited at the great selection of courses being offered in my field--early modern and restoration drama--and can't wait to hit the books!
U of T: Varsity Stadium
I spent a couple of weeks fine tuning my funding applications for next year's competition (U of T's graduate students must apply annually for prestigious external awards; these look excellent on a CV, and don't hurt the bank, either!). I am pretty content with my dissertation proposal--for now! I'm always coming up with new twists and turns on my project, and it's an exciting thing to see my ideas evolve over the years (I worked on a more condensed version of my proposed PhD dissertation during my master's degree in 2010).

Freedom!!!
I've been really and truly enjoying the freedom that comes with living in Canada, and so close to the subway / public transit. In fact, my building is literally ten steps from a subway station, and it's super easy to get around. I can walk to 98% of the places I need to go, and if I want to get anywhere really fast, transit is at my doorstep.

There's also SO much to do here, especially during the summer. I went with a friend to see The Taming of the Shrew in High Park a couple of weeks ago, and the Canadian National Exhibition was on throughout the past couple of weeks, too, culminating in this weekend's airshow with the Snowbirds--from my balcony, I could see the beautiful planes flying in perfect formation! (photo below)
The Snowbirds at the 2013 CNE!

Shakespeare in High Park
More Shakespeare: The Taming of the Shrew
TTC Subway: Clean and Convenient!
As much as I often tried to "argue" that Saudi Arabia wasn't necessarily limiting--especially for women--Toronto is a completely different world! As a woman, I wasn't permitted drive in Saudi Arabia, and that was a BIG deal. If a woman can't drive in Toronto, it barely has any implications--there are many, many reliable and fast options from the subway, buses, streetcars, commuter trains, etc, etc. In Saudi, though--or at least in Jeddah--there is no transit system to speak of (sure, there are random buses that take male workers from their construction sites to their lodging, but not anything a WOMAN can rely on!), and this is particularly constraining for the country's female population.

Where I lived and worked, I was constantly surrounded by a juxtaposition of people: girls and women from Jeddah / Saudi Arabia's wealthiest families who had their own BMWs (many girls did!), with drivers to boot...and, on the other hand, extreme poverty at every stoplight with women (often carrying babies) begging for money. While not every student had the luxury of her own driver, probably close to 75% of the girls in my university had their own drivers. By contrast, the Saudi / Arab women in my neighbourhood often relied on their sons, husbands and brothers to take them around. Others--whose husbands permitted it--took taxis...which, yes, I ventured out to do myself a number of times, but is not the most comfortable or pampering experience! Toronto's subways are a MUCH cleaner and fresher, not to mention more convenient, experience than a Jeddah cab!!!
Sunset in Jeddah
All of this said, I am looking forward to my trip to Jeddah in December. Of course I can't wait to see DH, but I'm also interested to see how I'll react to the very different world after having been immersed back in Toronto for, by then, six months!

Reverse Culture Shock?
When I was at U of T last week, I stopped in to say hello to the director of my graduate program, Dr. "M". I'd spoken to her over the phone a few times with questions about funding, courses, and the program when I was still in Jeddah, and she was interested to see how I've been settling back in here. I hadn't thought much about "reverse culture shock," but I suppose I've experienced--and am still going through--a bit of it.
Don't forget your abaya!!
Most notably, I often feel "naked" leaving my house without my abaya! Two years of wearing one and a head scarf definitely make covering almost second nature! When my sister was visiting, we went to Toni and Guy for haircuts. In Saudi, hair salons are, of course, segregated, so when you enter, there's an attendant who takes your abaya and gives you a number before she helps you into the salon coat. Needless to say, upon leaving Toni and Guy the other day, I was a bit kerfuffled when I paid, and then started looking around for my abaya! I felt I was missing something important without my covering! I quickly realized that, yes, my sweater and pants were all that I'd entered the salon wearing, and I wasn't missing anything (apart from an umbrella!) upon leaving.
Toni&Guy
Source: http://toniguytoronto.com/
I mentioned to Dr. "M" that surprisingly the most intense culture shock I've experienced was when I went to Kuwait in March 2012 to visit a friend. As soon as I stepped out of the airport, I was completely taken aback by all the WOMEN driving by!!! I suppose that since Kuwait is only an hour and a half flight from Jeddah that I hadn't braced myself for ANY difference. But Kuwait and Saudi are most definitely different (as someone told me before I decided to move to Saudi, warning me that I couldn't visit Kuwait and assume Saudi would be the same...or even similar).

When I arrived with my friend to her apartment, I was even more taken aback when, upon entering the elevator, she struck up conversation with a male neighbour! I literally (silently) panicked, wondering what would come of such mixed-gendered communication--and in public to boot! Again, I suppose that since Kuwait is in such close proximity to Saudi, I hadn't been expecting that this more "Western" girl / guy communication would be tolerated there.
Elevator talk?
Men, men, men!
After two weeks in Toronto, I had an experience where I was suddenly hit with how far I'd been kept from the opposite sex all that time abroad (apart from DH, of course!). I worked with all women, socialized with only women, volunteered with women, taught women in the university all day, and covered and kept a distance from everyone else.

When my friend L's boyfriend texted me a couple of weeks ago, I was accordingly surprised. A guy texting me?? What was he up to? (In Saudi, if a GUY texts or calls a woman and it's not business related, something is DEFINITELY up. It could only end in TROUBLE!) Well, it ended up that L's boyfriend, who works for the University of Toronto, was calling with an awesome opportunity for me to be involved with the "Boundless" campaign. U of T has been running this movement to raise $2 billion for the university's expansion and better graduate and research funding. "J," I'll call him, was asking whether I'd be free to be interviewed on camera for the campaign. What a neat opportunity! I said yes, and gave him more information about my program and the university's generous funding, and his boss okay-ed my participation.
The U of T "Boundless" Campaign
Source; http://boundless.utoronto.ca/
Filming on campus!
It was a great afternoon being filmed, and I felt like a celebrity in front of the camera, although afterwards, after only one hour of filming, I vowed that I never EVER want to be an actress! I have a new-found respect for the hard and tedious work that celebrity actors and actresses do all day filming. (NB: Another interesting thing? Feeling REALLY shy about taking pictures with PEOPLE in them! In Saudi, it's a big no-no if you don't want to offend people--especially women! So, my apologies for no "action" shots of the filming.)

The point of this story--which has kind of turned into a tangent--is that that afternoon, I was working with all men. It felt so incredibly odd! The cameraman was a guy, as were the directors, the lighting crew, the sound technician, and the others on set. I grew up with four brothers before my sister was born, and it kind of reminded me of that. But still, I couldn't escape the thought that in Saudi Arabia, this probably wouldn't fly! There, there would likely be women trained in most of these positions, setting the cameras and lighting up, etc, etc... Or else the women involved (definitely not just ONE woman alone with all these men!) would be covered in their abayas and hijabs. Again, I felt a bit naked wearing "only" my blazer and pants.
Boundless!
Settling Back In
Despite all these differences, I feel more or less settled back into my old life here in Toronto. My cat, Oreo, is now back with me; he stayed with my mom's aunt for a year. It's nice to have my little fur ball around again, especially in DH's absence.
Oreo--could you grab me that book, please?
I'm looking forward to orientation meetings this week, and to meeting my new PhD colleagues in my department. It should be a whirlwind week coming up, and before I know it, I'll be back to the usual work, work, work! Though this week has been nice and quiet--I definitely needed the down time after TWO big, stressful moves--from Saudi to my parents' and then the suburbs to Toronto--working hard is what I love, especially when it's academics!

Here's to a new beginning, which is what the wonderful autumn is all about!

PS: I just noticed that the blog now has over 10, 000 hits!!! THANK YOU to all my family, friends and loyal readers for your support for and interest in my adventures! :)
The University of Toronto: Convocation Hall & the CN Tower

Thursday, 23 May 2013

My Last Two Months in Saudi Arabia

News, news and more news...

I've been debating about how--or even whether--to write this post, but now that everything is official, I suppose that now is as good a time as any to share some bittersweet news. My sister suggested I entitle this post "after a long visit to Saudi Land, I'm coming back" but that doesn't quite fit my more serious tone (thanks for the suggestion, though, sis!).
Breaking News!!


The first piece of news (that you've probably guessed by now) is that I'm moving back to Canada (Toronto, specifically) in a month and a half. This is bittersweet because DH is staying in Jeddah for another year, so it will be back to long distance love for us. I'll probably get to come back to visit him over the Christmas break...which means six months before I see him after I leave for Toronto in July. I'm obviously torn up about this, so why, you ask, have I decided to move back to Canada without him? Why don't I stay in Saudi with him?

A mosque in Jeddah
Why, why why?

Is it so unbearable in Saudi Arabia that I just HAVE to get out of here?? Is wearing an abaya and headscarf too stifling hot that I've decided to call it quits? Is it THAT terrible being a ‘suppressed’ and subjugated woman out here in the desert? Is not being able to drive making me mad? Well, the last point is probably 75% accurate, but the women I’ve had the pleasure of meeting, teaching and working with have shown me time and again that there’s no more oppression of women here than there is in many other parts of the world (at least among the women that I know. This, admittedly, is a somewhat selective demographic). As for the abaya, I've become very accustomed to the covering up in black part of life here, and, in fact, I quite enjoy the freedom of leaving the house without worrying what I'm wearing under my abaya (although this isn't the case when I'm going to work because, of course, in an all-female workplace, I take off my abaya and wear professional attire).
An abaya and hijab: not as hot as they look!(Source: http://abayasbyakhawat.com/muslim-dress-raso-black-satin-cuffed-butterfly-abaya-shayla)
So if it's not life here, then why am I up and leaving DH? Well, back in the fall, if you recall from here: http://pinkjeddahsunset.blogspot.com/2012/12/one-year-in-saudi.html, I was applying for my PhD in Canada. I applied to a number of schools and found out this past February that I was accepted everywhere, including at the University of Toronto, where I was absolutely positively sure I wouldn't be accepted (it has the BEST English Department in the country for my field, early modern drama). Accordingly, after MUCH deliberation, negotiation of funding packages, and stress about leaving my husband and amazing job here in Jeddah, I decided that I simply couldn't turn down a five year, fully funded PhD in English at the University of Toronto. I decided that it's now or never!

Back to Graduate School!

So I will be leaving DH in the hot sandy desert in early July to spend some time with my family before moving back to Toronto in August. I've found a great place to live (in my old apartment building in the vibrant Annex neighbourhood where I lived while doing my BA). The location is perfect--literally across the road from campus, and a 5 minute walk to the English Department building.

The Jackman Humanities Building (where the Department of English is housed).
It's exciting to be going back to school, especially since being in Saudi Arabia has opened up a lot of doors for me in terms of helping me have a clearer focus for my dissertation. I'm thrilled that I have the opportunity to embark on a research project that energizes and inspires me. Living in Saudi Arabia has given me insight, knowledge, and personal experience about what it's like to be a woman in a place that is literally a different world. I have been fortunate to have met people from so many diverse walks of life, religious beliefs, life experiences, and ways of thinking, and this has definitely challenged and influenced the way I myself think! I'm looking forward to applying my unique intercultural experience to my work back in graduate school.

The University of Toronto
Goodbye's the Saddest Word

I'm quoting a Celine Dion song with this subtitle, I couldn't resist (video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I3TxyYDcSw), but, really, I can't stand goodbyes! I prefer "see you soon" and "talk to you on skype" to the more somber "goodbye." Of course, my family is happy I'm moving back to Canada, but I am so sad to be leaving DH and my wonderful, amazing colleagues and students at the college here in Jeddah. Really, teaching here has taught me so much, and though it's non-stop, busy and stressful at times (well, I shouldn't lie--most of the time!), I love it and am passionate about teaching at the post-secondary level. My colleagues have become close friends, and it saddens me to leave. So I'm instead saying "see you soon" because once I finish my PhD, DH and I would consider coming back to Saudi Arabia. Who knows, though, what the future will bring? It's full of exciting possibilities, though for now, we have to be apart and follow our own educational and career paths.

*******************************
Meeting the Parents!

On a completely unrelated note, a few weeks ago I finally--for the first time--got to meet DH's parents! They came to visit us from Bangladesh for three weeks. We were still working our hectic schedules during their visit, and since it was "term time" I was swamped with marking final papers and preparing final exams, but we made the most of their three weeks in Saudi Arabia. We met them at the airport a few Wednesdays ago after work (the equivalent of Friday night in the Western world since our weekends are Thursday and Friday). That evening they made the one hour drive to Makkah, and the next day we joined them there and stayed the night. They went for Umrah (a small pilgrimage) on Wednesday, and then we spent Thursday and Friday together. Since they weren't able to come to our wedding because it was in Canada, they gave me some beautiful bridal jewelry as a belated wedding gift. In addition, DH's two sisters gave me some beautiful Bangladeshi saris. I now need to find an Indian friend who is getting married so I can have occasion to wear these beautiful clothes!!!

Jeddah Airport Arrivals
The next weekend, we met DH's parents in Madinah, which is about 4 and a half hours north west of Jeddah. We hired a driver so that DH didn't have to handle that long drive all by himself (since I'm not allowed to drive here!) It was a long trip in the middle of the night, but well worth the drive! Madinah is the city where the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) died, and his grave is in what is known as "The Prophet's Mosque." Our time in Madinah was relaxing and breathtaking.

The Prophet's Mosque, Madinah, Saudi Arabia
Madinah, Saudi Arabia
Madinah, Saudi Arabia
A Mosque in Madinah
A Mosque in Madinah
Outside the Prophet's Mosque
After the weekend there, DH and I, along with his parents, came back to Jeddah. We had to work on Saturday (i.e. Monday), and his mom greeted us each evening with delicious home-cooked Bangladeshi food. Mmm! Chicken curries, rice (lots and lots of rice), and so many yummy treats! I wish I had time to cook such wonderful meals, but, alas, work is always beckoning.
Highway landscape between Madinah and Jeddah
The long drive back to Jeddah.
All in all, it was a wonderful visit, and I'm so glad that I finally got the chance to meet DH's wonderful parents. If it wasn't so expensive, we would love to plan a trip to Bangladesh ourselves to meet his whole family (he has two sisters and each has two children. Yep! I'm a proud aunt!)

Finishing Up the Semester

After DH's parents left, this past week was super busy with final exams, marking, and working on the tedious task of compiling course files for each course I taught this past term. Thankfully, I finished almost everything and got my exams and final grades in by the deadline.

This weekend is the calm before another storm; on Saturday, the summer semester begins and I`ll be teaching my final two courses before moving back to Canada in July. Most of my colleagues will be traveling after the next week or two, so it will be sad to part. The college will feel much emptier without all of them during my last semester here.

Speaking of my colleagues, they really are so wonderful. Last weekend, they threw me a surprise going-away lunch and gave me a heartfelt card and a beautiful Coach bag! I am so blessed to have met and worked with such wonderful, kind, generous ladies over the past two years. I will definitely stop in to visit them all when I`m here in December!!!
My new Coach bag--it even matches my BLOG!
Thank you, colleagues!!!
Until next time...

I suppose that`s all my news for now. As usual, I`ve taken awhile between posts, but I end up overcompensating with lengthy pieces! I guess that`s just my blogging style!

The next month will be filled, I`m sure, with lots of commotion at work, and with packing and preparing for my big move back to Canada. I was invited to one of my students`weddings that will take place in a couple of weeks, so if I make it out to that, I will definitely dedicate a post to my experience of a Saudi wedding!! If I go, I will have to get very dressed up (hair, make-up, ballgown)--probably even more than I did for my own wedding!!!

Anyways, hope that you, my dear readers, are all well...and if you`re one of my Toronto friends reading, SEE YOU SOON!!!!

Asalam alakium!

Julie xoxo

PS I hope you`ll consider voting in the POLL I've posted in the top right hand corner of the page! :)

Thursday, 20 December 2012

One Year In Saudi!


How time flies...

Assalamu alaikum, everyone!

I just realized that I’ve now been in Saudi Arabia for an entire year! Wow! I flew into Jeddah last year on December 17th, and can’t believe a year has already passed since I was reunited with DH (see two blog entries from when I first arrived here: http://pinkjeddahsunset.blogspot.com/2011/12/lucky-day-71.html and here: http://pinkjeddahsunset.blogspot.com/2012/01/cultural-lessons-modesty-speech-and.html). after over two years of a long-distance engagement, and started a new life here. The past year has been full of adjustments being newly married, in a new country, starting a new job, meeting new friends, etc, etc, but alhamdulillah (“praise God” in Arabic) it’s been an amazing experience and I definitely don’t regret moving here.

There were times—especially in the second six months in Jeddah—that were particularly challenging. Once the ‘newness’ of everything wore off and reality set in, I started to feel the frustration of not being able to drive, the stress of work, and anxiety about starting to repay my huge student loan (in Ontario, Canada, the government gives students a six month grace period after the completion of studies before they have to commence loan repayment...) All of these factors were often overwhelming.

Back to the future...
These days, I’ve been keeping so busy that I haven’t had time to think about “oh, I can’t drive” or “I wish” this or that. I love my job at an all-girls university, and have become more involved in extracurricular activities now that I’m used to teaching and the workload. I started a “Music Club” with a group of girls who love to sing, and we’ve had a blast putting on our first performance at a college event, “Kaleidoscope,” a couple weeks ago. In January, I’ll be working with the Drama Club to put on a performance of The Taming of the Shrew. I spent a whole weekend revising Shakespeare’s script to make it culturally appropriate (sorry, Will, no mention of alcohol [a lot of “ale” and “wine” are dunk in the play....] is permitted!) I can’t wait to start working with my lovely colleague, who I’ll call “M,” and casting the parts!

I’ve also been tutoring three nights a week, and though it’s a busy schedule, I really enjoy working with the grade twelve girl, and her younger sister who is in grade six. They’re both motivated and work hard, which is a refreshing change from some—though not all ;)—of my students in my full-time job. Just last week, one of the students in my writing class came and told me she got 60% on a quiz I’d posted online for the class to complete. I’d told them they could leave class once they finished the quiz, and gave them two chances to attempt the answers. (In our program a 65% is a pass). I suggested that she take advantage of her second chance to write the quiz and asked her if she was aware of her mark in the class (an F). “Yes, miss, I know I’m failing. I don’t want to be in school. It’s okay if I fail.” MAJOR *sigh* from my side. Doesn’t she realize that a good education is worth SO MUCH, and is something that many, many women in Saudi Arabia—and throughout the world, for that matter—don’t have the opportunity to receive?

While hearing this lack of motivation can be frustrating, I have to admit that I was duly warned. Without fail, in every interview I had for various teaching positions in Saudi Arabia, I was asked “how would you deal with students who have no motivation?” Yes, this is definitely an issue!

On the other hand, many of my students are exceptional and have the desire to learn, to work hard, and to take advantage of their classes. They are excited to perfect their English so they can excel in their majors (many will go on to study Business, Interior Design, Speech and Hearing Sciences, the Social Sciences, etc.). Saudi Arabia is a country with so much opportunity!
We know too well how terrible the economy has been—and continues to be—in the Western world. Here in Saudi Arabia, most people cannot comprehend that there aren’t ample job opportunities for someone with my level of education. Their jaws drop every time I tell stories of my friends with master’s degrees working at McDonald’s, Wal-Mart, and other places where we worked to earn an extra buck while we were in high school. I graduated two years ago with my master’s degree, and after being accepted into a PhD program (also in Canada), I declined full funding and offers of admission because the employment situation—even for very highly educated people—is so grim in Canada.

In Saudi Arabia, by contrast, my students can be assured that they will have jobs—and good ones at that! The government, mashallah, is taking extensive steps to ‘Saudize’ the job market. So my task is to encourage these young women to work hard and appreciate the assurance of appealing careers that they will love once they graduate with their bachelor’s degrees.

Where have I been?
Changing the subject a little, I’ve been on a little hiatus from my blog for a number of reasons. Lots of things have been going on since DH and I returned to Jeddah after the summer.

Visits to Makkah
DH and I are thankful that Jeddah is a short 45 minute drive from the Holy City of Makkah. We try to get away and have little weekend “staycations” (i.e. stay in a hotel somewhere relatively close to home) at least once a month so that we can get away from the rush of everyday life and stop, relax, and rejuvenate. It’s been really making being in Saudi Arabia a rewarding experience. Makkah, a bustling city surrounded by desert and mountains, is an absolutely breathtaking place, and hearing the adhan (call to prayer) in the haram (holiest area) is simply phenomenal. Subhanallah!
On the way to Makkah.

Some beautiful desert scenery.

Getting into the city; view of the Clock Tower in the distance.
The Clock Tower, Makkah, Saudi Arabia
DH and I especially appreciate our little monthly escapes because we’ve both been so busy with planning for something else: possible returns to graduate school!

A return to graduate school?
Since DH was studying for his GMAT for business school admission over the summer, I’ve also been toying with the idea of a return to graduate school myself. I mentioned that I was offered funding and admission for my PhD two years ago, but declined in order to move abroad and experience life and work in Saudi Arabia. I don’t regret this decision, but I really do miss academia and would love, love, love to go back and continue with my research. With a master’s degree, I’m qualified to teach at the university level here in Saudi Arabia, but in Canada, I can only teach at the college level with an MA. I am thinking that with a PhD, even if the university job market is impossible to penetrate, with a PhD in English I would at least be more competitive for college-level faculty positions.
Trinity College Dublin
That said, I spent the better part of the past three months working on external funding applications,  research proposals, contacting potential supervisors, and filling out a million and one annoying “fill in the field” forms on various university websites. Alhamdulillah I’m finished with my Canadian PhD school and funding applications... Now I’m thinking about applying in the UK, too.

Ireland!
On my two-week break in October, DH went to Mecca for Hajj (the pilgrimage that every Muslim who is physically and financially able to perform must complete once in his or her lifetime), and after finishing most of my PhD applications, a friend and I traveled to Dublin, Ireland for the second week of the break.

Naturally, after seeing the sights, I ended up on a university campus (it just happened—I didn’t plan it, I swear!!!) and was able to meet with a couple of potential supervisors at Trinity College Dublin. I love the idea of studying in the UK, especially since my field is early modern British drama. The archives, theatres and resources there cannot compare to what we have in Canada. I’d have to end up applying for travel grants to visit the UK anyways... Unfortunately, though, funding for postgraduate studies in the UK (and Europe in general?) is nothing compared to Canada where I can expect to be offered enough funding to cover my tuition, books, AND living expenses, and possibly even put some money aside. Since I met with a potential supervisor in Dublin, though, I think I’ll go through with my application there and see if I’m offered anything competitive.
The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland
Dublin is truly beautiful, and since I was there toward the end of October, all the shops were setting up their Christmas displays and the cooler weather made me so nostalgic for home. This is my second Christmas away from my family, but it hasn’t been a bad thing so far. In Saudi Arabia, Christmas is just any other day, so it makes me less inclined to sit around feeling like I’m missing out.

A visit home!
Between semesters in January, though, I have a week off. I’m excited that my mom bought me a ticket to fly home for that week so I can visit family! I especially miss my little sister (well, at 16, she’s not so little anymore!) and can’t wait to hang out and enjoy some nice chilly Toronto weather! (I hope I can handle it after Jeddah`s consistent heat!!!)

See you soon...
Thanks for stopping by and reading! It’s always nice to keep in touch with friends and family, and to have visitors from all over the world come to Pink Jeddah Sunset and say hello!

Until next time, Asalamu alaikum!

Tuesday, 9 October 2012

Living it up in Saudi: The "relaxed" life of working expats!


Back in Saudi Sand!

Well, after a month of being home in Jeddah, I`ve finally found the time to write. What’s driven me (almost forced me because I’m slightly incapacitated...) to write has become somewhat of an opportunity to contemplate life here. Since last night, I’ve had a terrible, terrible stomach ache that simply won’t go away! I left work early this afternoon with the ever-growing sensation of knives stabbing my insides. Not fun. I’ve had stomach problems my whole life; I remember being in grade one and going to a specialist with my mom. No doctor really diagnosed what’s wrong. Considering that the elimination of various foods didn’t point to anything diet-wise, my conclusion is simple. Stress. 

Back to the desert! 
“Stress...in Saudi Arabia?!” you may be asking. “Aren’t you in the most laid-back part of the world? Where things take forever to get done, where taking your time is the name of the game?” Well, let’s go back in time a little bit and recall the time when I thought the same way...
Stress?


What We Expect

Since returning to Jeddah on September 3rd, this past month has flown by in a flurry of, yes, chaos and busyness. When I first moved to Saudi Arabia, I was under the impression that all things in the Kingdom are done in a leisurely, relaxed pace. I was "sold" on the idea that moving here would mean a new lifestyle marked by short workdays, lots of holidays and opportunities to travel, and weekends spent gallivanting around shopping and visiting with friends. 

At his job, DH, who was here for two and a half years before I joined him, comes and goes depending on his class schedule. Some days, he teaches for three hours in the morning and is then free from 11am on! Needless to say, I had some pretty rosy glassed on when I decided to move here!
Commuter train in Toronto
Today at work I was chatting with my wonderful boss, M. She's really sweet and we get along amazingly well, Alhamdulillah (Arabic for praise God!). Years ago, M used to work in Paris. She commuted back and forth from work to home for three hours a day. She took a bus, the train, and was rushed, rushed, rushed with work, family, and life commitments. This is life in the West. I, too, as an undergraduate student, graduate student and an employee often felt simultaneously burdened with so many commitments: extra-curriculars, volunteering, school work, teaching and research assistantships, funding applications, family responsibilities, and later on wedding planning to top it all off! 

And then came the opportunity to move to KSA. "Yes," I thought. "Finally a break. Finally all my hard work, my rushing here and there, my chaotic life will come to a halt." I couldn't wait for a change of pace.   


What We Actually Get!

And then I arrived in Jeddah. The first month was absolutely wonderful. I'd been waiting for months on end for my visa (for that story click here: http://pinkjeddahsunset.blogspot.ca/2011/09/time-is-very-slow-for-those-who-wait.html, and here: http://pinkjeddahsunset.blogspot.ca/2011/11/day-42-why-we-wait.html), and DH and I, then newlyweds, had spent some torturous time apart (really—it felt like forever) while I waited for sponsorship. I arrived here mid-semester last December, and had to wait until the new term at the end of January to begin teaching. 

In the meantime, DH showed me around my new city, took me for dinner, drove me to the Red Sea Mall, the Red Sea, and showed me a good time. And then I started working.
My first trip to the Red Sea,
December 2011
Reality Sets In

Starting a new job is not easy. Neither is being in a new country. Being newly married isn’t a walk in the park, either! Needless to say, it was a tough, tough year adjusting to all these new things.

Oh, how I resented my husband at the time. (I’m sorry, my love!) My job was (and is) NOT a simple “go in for your classes, then head on home” kind of job. While DH often brought work home, he, as a man who is permitted to drive here, had the “leisure” of being able to drive straight home after work. Even if I finished class at 11am, he taught until 4pm on those days and so I had to wait for him, my DH, my DD (designated driver!).
Wishing I was allowed to drive our car...
Exit/Re-Entry Visas

On top of this, DH had promised that we’d have the chance to travel and “see the world” when I moved here. [Let me pause for a second and draw your attention to something quite *interesting* [insert sarcasm here!!]: Saudi Arabia is the ONLY country in the world where you not only require a visa to ENTER the country, but one to EXIT and RE-ENTER again. A person’s employer / sponsor must issue this document for a person who is not Saudi to leave the country.] So, go figure that when I finally arrived in Jeddah, it was the first year that DH’s workplace stopped allowing employees exit / re-entry visas at any time other than over Hajj Break (the annual pilgrimage to Makkah). Like some large corporations, DH’s university gives long vacations a number of times throughout the year, but no longer allows employees to leave the country. How frustrating!!! Last year, I did end up visiting friends who are teaching in Kuwait, but without DH it just wasn’t the same. This year (actually, in just over two weeks a really good friend of mine and I are traveling to Ireland for our vacation!) I guess it`s not all bad news--at least I can come and go!
No traveling for him... 
Overall, my misconceptions about what it meant to “work” in Saudi Arabia were honestly one of the worst perpetrators of my negativity and consequent attitude about being here. The college where I work isn’t just another “private” college. It’s an internationally-accredited, degree-granting university. The first one in Jeddah to be American accredited, in fact. Accordingly, we have extremely high standards, academic and otherwise, to maintain, and this means that faculty necessarily have to work longer and harder than instructors at other institutions. At the end of the day, though, this is what drew me to my place of work. I had other job offers (I wrote about one of them here: http://pinkjeddahsunset.blogspot.ca/2011/05/delays-and-other-job-offers.html), but my school has so many benefits.
The College!
The garden at work
The Silver Lining

As with other Saudi schools, it’s an all-female environment. Once I’m at work, I can take off my abaya and hijab and wear what are considered, by Canadian standards, “normal” business-casual clothes. OH, THE FREEDOM!!! Seriously, when a man enters the college (to fix something or to give a workshop, etc.), alerts go off over the PA system: “A man is in the building. Please put on your abayas. I repeat: put on your abayas!!!” Sitting at work or teaching in the classroom in an abaya and hijab is definitely not as comfortable as wearing “normal” clothes. I prefer that the men stay away!

Although I worked so much last year—and in fact I’ve been teaching two extra classes this semester because we’re waiting for another faculty member to receive her visa; I’ve also taken up a tutoring position three nights a week—this year is much better. At the college, we have lots of extra-curriculars, events and activities. Last year I taught piano lessons to Saudi students, and this year a colleague and I have started the Drama and Music Club. We’ll put on a production each semester and get the girls involved in the fine arts.

The college also has English and Arabic Journalism Clubs, a Mock UN Club (that won something last year in a competition at Harvard!), sports clubs, and basketball, badminton, and dance teams, just to name a few! It’s a bustling, busy place.
The atrium where the Club Fair was today!
Champion Sports Room
We offer majors including Law, Business, Fashion and Interior Design, Architecture, Arabic, the Social Sciences, and many others. Graduates have gone on to complete master’s degrees and PhDs in America, Canada and Europe. I’m really and truly proud to be part of the community where I work. Yes, I work a lot of long, hours, but what teacher doesn’t (okay, maybe there are *some*...)?


And I Wouldn’t Change a Thing!
(...except for my stomach ache lol)

At the end of the day, most of my students are hard-working, honest and respectful young women who have solid goals, plans and ambitions they can’t wait to embark on! We have fantastic discussions about social issues, women’s rights, and the ongoing rapid changes—especially in women’s education, as I’ve described above—in this rapidly-developing country. I’m thrilled to be a part of this amazingly inspiring social change in Saudi Arabia, and am honoured to spend so much time with this strong, determined generation of Arab women.